BioLet 30 NE Installation
Tools Required
- Standard screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- Drill
- 2 1/4” hole saw
- 1 1/4” drill bit
- Jig saw or keyhole saw
- Hammer
- Roofing nails
- 100% adhesive silicon calking (do not use latex silicon)
- Plum bob or weighted string
- Pencil
Precautions
- Always wear goggles and protective clothing while operating hand and power tools.
- Observe all precautions and operating instructions provided by the tool manufacturer.
- Ensure there are no electrical wires, water pipes or gas pipes in the area you are cutting or drilling.
Before installing your BioLet
- Check with your local health authorities and building inspector for regulations governing the installation of your BioLet.
- Watch the “BioLet and Your Environment” instruction video. (All instructions in this manual take precedence over instructions in the video)
- Ensure there is generous air flow into the bathroom. A 1” gap under the bathroom door or a vent in the wall will ensure sufficient airflow to the toilet. Overhead vents and open windows should be used with caution as these may cause a negative pressure in the room and promote a back draft into the room through the toilet causing the presence of an unpleasant odor.
- Ensure the temperature in the room where the toilet is to be installed can be maintained above 64°F during periods while the toilet is being used.
- Ensure the floor under the toilet is level and insulated or heated.
- Ensure the vent pipe will be able to extend at least 6” above anything within 10’ of it or above the peak of the roof whenever possible. (See the “Installation” and “Theory of composting toilets; maintaining aeration” sections below)
- Ensure your installation can be achieved with the addition of no more than 2 – 45° angles.
- Verify that the total run for the vent pipe is less than 30’ in a straight up installation or 27’ if 2 – 45° angles are required. Consult with BioLet USA technical support if a longer run is required.
***IMPORTANT****
Installation of the vent pipe is CRITICAL to the operation of your BioLet Composting Toilet.
If you must vary the installation from these instructions in ANY WAY,
please contact technical support at 1-800-524-6538 PRIOR to installation.
Straight run through ceiling and roof
- Position the toilet 2 ¼” from the wall.
- Determine how and where you are going to run the drainage tube using the “Drainage Recommendations” section as a guide.
***IMPORTANT***
Whenever possible, turn the drain tube nipple straight down and pass the drain tube through the floor directly below the nipple. Ensure placement of the drain tube allows for a constant downward slope to promote proper flow of the liquids. Ensure drain tube does not kink wherever bends are necessary.
- Drill a 1 1/4” hole in the floor or wall to accommodate the drain tube.
- Using a plumb-bob or a weighted string, find and mark the spot on the ceiling directly above the center of the ventilation outlet on back of the toilet.
- Drill a 2 1/4” hole in the ceiling where you just made a mark in Step 2.
- Drill a 2 1/4” hole in the roof above the hole in the ceiling.
- Remove the top of the unit and insure that the rubber pipe connector is all the way on the nipple inside the toilet so the flange fits square against the nipple housing.
- Insert 1 length of 54mm, white, belled pipe into the rubber connector on the back of the toilet with the belled end up.
- Install the drainage tube attaching it to the connector on the back of the toilet.
- Place the large white spacing cylinders between the pre-drilled holes on the rear of the unit and the wall and screw the long (3 ½”) mounting screws through the assembly. (**NOTE** if the screws do not line up with the studs in the wall, be sure to first install the wall anchors.)
- Insert the next white, belled pipe into the pipe installed in the back of the toilet. Repeat until the end of the white pipe extends through the roof.
- Cut the last pipe so only the bell of the pipe is sticking above the roof.
- Seal the hole in roof using the silicone to caulk around the pipe.
- Remove the 54mm white pipe and insulation from inside the 108mm black pipe, keeping the reducing coupling attached to the white 54mm pipe with no bell.
- Slide non-belled black pipe into belled end of other black pipe.
- With the bell facing downward cut the black pipe so it fits the angle of the roof and the other end extends at least 6” above anything within 10 feet if it. Wherever possible, extend the vent pipe above the peak of the roof. (The total length of the black piping must be at least 2’; 4’ on roofs with less than a 3/12 pitch.)
- Cut the insulation to the angle of the roof as done with the black pipe in step 14.
- Slide the roof flashing over black pipe with the top of the flashing away from the cut end of the pipe.
- Reinsert white pipe and insulation into the black pipe with the reducing coupling toward the uncut end.
- Place the black pipe over the white pipe that extends from the roof, ensuring that the white pipe inside the black pipe securely joins with the pipe extending from the roof.
- Slide roof flashing down so it lies evenly on the roof, slipping its flanges under the shingles along the top edge.
- Outline the flashing on the roof.
- Raise the flashing and apply silicone sealant inside the outline.
- Slide the flashing back down, sliding the flange under the shingles along the top edge and press it firmly into the sealant. When the flashing is properly placed the top part of the flashing should be under the shingles and the lower portion should be on top so water sheds easily.
- Secure the top of the flashing with corrosion resistant nails or staples at each corner and along the sides at 4” – 6” intervals.
- Exposed nails or staples should be sealed with silicone sealant.
- Slide the reducing coupling down till it fits over the black pipe.
- Cut off the white 55mm pipe even with the top of the reducing coupling.
- Slide the insect netting down over the top of the reducing coupling. Secure it in place using a hose clamp.
*** IMPORTANT ***
Wherever the ventilation pipe passes through an unconditioned area (i.e. attic space) it needs to be insulated. Use a pipe wrap with an insulating value of at least R11.
A rain cap is not necessary. If one is desired, use ONLY the BioLet authorized wind directional cap (Part# wind) that can be obtained from BioLet or your authorized dealer. Any other cap may hinder the airflow from the toilet and cause a reduction in the performance of the unit.
Through the exterior wall using 45° elbows.
- 54mm 45° elbows (part# 820021) and 108mm outside pipe kits (part# 506) may be purchased from BioLet or your authorized dealer.
- Remove the top of the unit and remove the rubber connector from the nipple inside the unit.
- Position the toilet 3/8” away from the wall.
- Determine how and where you are going to run the drainage tube using the “Drainage Recommendations” section as a guide.
***IMPORTANT***
Whenever possible, turn the drain tube nipple straight down and pass the drain tube through the floor directly below the nipple. Ensure placement of the drain tube allows for a constant downward slope to promote proper flow of the liquids. Ensure drain tube does not kink wherever bends are necessary.
- Drill a 1 1/4” hole in the floor or wall to accommodate the drain tube.
- Mark the place on the wall where the pipe coming out of the unit at a 45° angle will pass through.
- Drill a 2 1/4” hole at a 45° angle through the wall where marked in the previous step.
- Cut one section of belled white pipe and pass it through the hole you drilled in the previous step.
- Reposition the toilet 3/8” away from the wall and connect the non-belled white pipe to the nipple (which you removed the rubber connector from in Step 1.)
- Install the drainage tube attaching it to the connector on the back of the toilet.
- Place the small white spacing cylinders between the pre-drilled holes on the rear of the unit and the wall and screw the short (1 ¼”) mounting screws through the assembly. (**NOTE** If the screws do not line up with the studs in the wall, be sure to first install the wall anchors.)
- Outside the structure cut the pipe sticking through the wall to desired length.
- Insert the male stub of the 45° elbow into the pipe protruding through the wall.
- Insert the other male stub of the 45° elbow into the non-belled end of a 54mm white pipe.
- Wrap the pipe in step 11 in insulation and tape the seams using duct tape.
- Slide the non-belled 108mm black pipe over the insulated pipe in step 12.
- Continue the pipe upward as in the “Straight run through ceiling and roof” procedures above insulating each pipe as in steps 12 & 13 in this procedure. The remaining 108mm black pipes should be assembled with the belled end down.
Drainage recommendations
  
The drainage system to be chosen depends entirely on the soil condition, ground water level and local regulations. Always consult your local health authorities before installing your drainage system.
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